Nearly everyone here at OutdoorGearLab spends a lot of time climbing, from big wall routes to sport climbing and bouldering, and everything in between. We've burned through countless pairs of approach shoes over the years, and our collective experience is a boon to you.
Our lead tester assessed these approach shoes during his summer on the Tuolumne SAR site scrambling in the High Sierra, bouldering, and sport climbing in Bishop and numerous other California, Nevada, and Utah climbing adventures.
We devised an updated set of evaluation metrics that balance climbing ability with hiking ability. We independently weighed each of the size 9.5 models we tested. We probably looked a little strange bouldering in Bishop and trekking up to Indian Creek crags wearing one Five Ten shoe and one La Sportiva shoe, but that's how we test: side-by-side.
We break down this metric into three subsections; edging, smearing, and crack climbing. Fortunately, all of these skills are put to use on a popular route called the Northwest Books of Lembert Dome in beautiful Tuolumne Meadows, California. Our lead tester free soloed a lap up the Books in each model, noting how easily he could wiggle them into cracks, stand on edges, and make the occasional smear move. In shoes that rated poorly in the climbing metric, this was sometimes a scary process.
Walking, walking, walking to the crag, through the mountains down the scree fields with light packs for scrambling or heavy packs for search and rescue missions. We made careful note of instability, sore arches, rocks entering around the cuff. If your feet already hurt before you get to the climb, putting them in climbing shoes isn't going to make them feel any better.
Standing in aiders isn't comfortable. That's why aid climbers spend most of their time in supportive approach shoes and only occasionally dawn a pair of actual climbing shoes. To assess support, we stood in aiders, did a little jugging, and stood around in slings at the crag. Generally, a stiffer shoe is more supportive and comfortable for standing in slings.
Weight & Packability
The easiest and most objective of our metrics is determined by first weighing each pair of shoes and then climbing around with them clipped to our harnesses. Models with an easy attachment for a carabiner scored more points in this field.