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Best Climbing Harnesses for Women of 2021

Sport climbing in the Gorge in the Solution Guide. These long routes a...
Photo: Neil Kauffman
Thursday April 22, 2021
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Our team of lady rock crushers has tested over 20 of the best climbing harness for women over 7 years. This 2021 update features 11 of the best options available on the market for single and multi-pitch rock and ice climbing. We wore each while tackling long alpine objectives and clipping bolts at our local crag. We also tested each at the gym and on icy, picked-out waterfalls. After spending several months comparing each side-by-side, we offer our recommendations to help you find a comfortable and functional harness that'll have you climbing high on ice, rock, or plastic.

Related: Best Climbing Harness For Men

Top 11 Product Ratings

Displaying 1 - 5 of 11
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Awards Editors' Choice Award Top Pick Award Best Buy Award Top Pick Award  
Price $99.95 at Backcountry
Compare at 3 sellers
$59.96 at Backcountry
Compare at 3 sellers
$49.88 at Amazon
Compare at 3 sellers
$129.95 at Backcountry
Compare at 2 sellers
$64.90 at Amazon
Compare at 3 sellers
Overall Score Sort Icon
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76
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Pros Comfortable, very durable, five gear loops, simple designLightweight, breathable, comfortable, and highly mobileComfortable, easy to clip rigid gear loops, great value, adjustable leg loop system is light and easyPadded waist belt is comfortable, made in the USA and customizableSliding waist belt keeps the belay loop in front as you adjust it, comfortable to hang in, durable
Cons On the expensive side, a bit bulky, stiff leg loopsUncomfortable if leg loops don't fit youWaist belt doesn't have the best ventilationHeavy and a little bulkyRear haul loop isn't very functional, bulky
Bottom Line Our go to for trad climbing and multi pitching thanks to its durable design and accommodating gear loopsA sport climber's dream harness that is comfortable, breathable, and easy to move inAn excellent all around model that is also affordableA great option for long routes with hanging belaysA comfortable, all-around model with a few design issues that make it fall bit short
Rating Categories Black Diamond Solution Guide Solution Momentum Misty Mountain Silhouette 70Edelrid Jayne II
Hanging Comfort (30%)
9
8
7
9
7
Standing Comfort (25%)
8
9
9
6
8
Features (20%)
9
9
8
7
8
Versatility (15%)
7
6
8
8
7
Adjustability (10%)
7
6
7
9
8
Specs Black Diamond... Solution Momentum Misty Mountain... 70Edelrid Jayne II
Designed for these Disciplines Trad, Multipitch Sport Sport, Trad Sport, Trad Sport, Trad, Ice
Weight in ounces (size small) 14.1 12 12.2 15.4 15.5
Gear Loops 5 (4 rigid, 1 flexible) 4 (rigid) 4 (rigid) 4 (rigid) 4 (rigid with flexible attachment points)
Haul Loop Yes Yes (not full strength) Yes Yes Yes (very small)
Adjustable Legs? No No Yes Yes Yes
Self-locking buckle? Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Ice Tool Holder Slot No No No No Yes (2)
Waistbelt Construction Fusion Comfort Technology (3 strands of webbing) Fusion Comfort Technology (3 strands of webbing) Dual Core (2 thin bands of webbing with foam in between) Cambered bi-layer waistbelt 3D mesh padding
Special Features Extra padding in waistband Leg loops have same wide construction as waistbelt trakFIT leg adjusters are low profile and lightweight Upturned gear loops Plastic protector over bottom tie-in point

Best Overall Climbing Harness


Black Diamond Solution Guide - Women's


Black Diamond Solution Guide - Women's
Editors' Choice Award

$99.95
at Backcountry
See It

83
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Hanging Comfort - 30% 9
  • Standing Comfort - 25% 8
  • Features - 20% 9
  • Versatility - 15% 7
  • Adjustability - 10% 7
Weight (size small): 14.1 ounces | Designed for: Trad
Extremely durable
Comfortable for hanging in
Low profile design is packable and comfortable for all-day use
All-around functionality
Stiff
On the pricier side

If you're used to beating up your sport climbing harness on desert offwidths or Yosemite grovel-fests, the Black Diamond Solution Guide is a great option. Even for that multi-pitch megaproject, the Solution Guide is our go-to for long missions. It's also a wise choice for sport climbing, especially if you're working on a new project. The well-padded, wide waistband provides comfort at hanging belays, and the extra-wide gear loops make sure there is ample room for a double rack, plus some. All of these features are packed into a sleek, lightweight package, which is really what makes it stand out in comparison to other harnesses.

The downsides to the Solution Guide are its lack of adjustability in the leg loops — making it hard to layer with — and its lack of ice clipper slots. These factors take away from its versatility, but we still liked this harness for most rock climbing endeavors.

Read review: Black Diamond Solution Guide

Best for Sport Climbing


Black Diamond Solution - Women's


Black Diamond Solution - Women's
Top Pick Award

$59.96
(20% off)
at Backcountry
See It

80
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Hanging Comfort - 30% 8
  • Standing Comfort - 25% 9
  • Features - 20% 9
  • Versatility - 15% 6
  • Adjustability - 10% 6
Weight (size small): 12 ounces | Designed for: Sport
Breathable and lightweight
Comfortable
Great mobility
Leg loops aren't adjustable

While we don't love every harness that Black Diamond is currently making — we're looking at you Technician — we sure do love the Solution for trad and sport climbing. The Solution is lightweight and breathable, and it is surprisingly comfortable considering the minimal amount of padding. The load is dispersed throughout the waist belt and leg loops via three different strands of thin webbing so that you never feel a pressure point in one spot only. The elastic on the leg loops have great stretch and mobility, and they are tapered just the right amount for where they pass through your thighs.

Speaking of the leg loops, they are not adjustable, so if you have larger or smaller thighs relative to your waist, the Solution may not fit you well. And while it felt great while hangdogging and giving our friends epic belays, it wouldn't be our first choice for a Grade V with hanging belays. If you pretty much stick to 100-foot routes though, sport or trad, you'll appreciate the lightweight nature of this harness, and the surprising level of comfort that it provides.

Read review: Black Diamond Solution - Women's

Best Bang for the Buck


Black Diamond Momentum - Women's


Black Diamond Momentum - Women's
Best Buy Award

$49.88
(17% off)
at Amazon
See It

79
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Hanging Comfort - 30% 7
  • Standing Comfort - 25% 9
  • Features - 20% 8
  • Versatility - 15% 8
  • Adjustability - 10% 7
Weight (size small): 11.6 ounces | Designed for: Sport, Trad
Lots of padding in the waist belt and legs
Rigid gear loops make clipping easy
Excellent value
The waist belt is not very breathable

An iteration of a harness that Black Diamond has been selling for years, the Black Diamond Momentum does not disappoint. It's a versatile, all-around model that is comfortable, adjustable, and inexpensive. It has Black Diamond's unique trakFIT adjustable leg loops, which provide a bit of adjustability but still the security of a fixed-leg system. The plastic-covered gear loops are rigid and stick out from the waist belt for easy clipping and unclipping, and there is a sturdy haul loop in the back.

The Momentum has a thickly padded waist belt, which is excellent for hanging belays, but not so great on warm days. We always found ourselves with a sweaty back in this one. Keep that in mind if you climb in hot weather or tropical climates. Other than that, this affordable model is an excellent buy for anyone starting out, or for those who would rather put some extra money into their rack or a new rope.

Read review: Black Diamond Momentum - Women's

Best for Gym Climbing


Mammut Alnasca


Mammut Alnasca
Top Pick Award

$119.95
at Amazon
See It

70
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Hanging Comfort - 30% 7
  • Standing Comfort - 25% 9
  • Features - 20% 7
  • Versatility - 15% 5
  • Adjustability - 10% 5
Weight (size small): 11.04 ounces | Designed for: Sport, Gym
Breathable mesh construction
Very lightweight
Comfortable for standing around in
Small gear loops are hard to use
Lacks padding
Lacks versatility

If you are looking for a lightweight harness to keep in the bottom of your gym bag, dedicated specifically to the art of climbing on plastic, the Mammut Alnasca might be for you. It will make you feel as light and smooth as the pros in the World Cup finals, with nothing but your belay card flapping in the circulating indoor air. The mesh paneling allows for plenty of breathability, and the thin leg loops and minimal padding feels sleek when walking around the gym floor.

Be warned though; all of the qualities that make the Alnasca a great gym harness also take away from its versatility. The tiny belay loop and minimalist gear loops are not confidence-inspiring nor large enough for a double rack. The lack of padding is okay when working your gym proj, but is not ideal for pitch after pitch of hanging belays.

Read review: Mammut Alnasca

Great for Fast and Light Missions


Arc'teryx FL-355 - Women's


Arc'teryx FL-355 - Women's

$114.19
(21% off)
at Amazon
See It

68
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Hanging Comfort - 30% 5
  • Standing Comfort - 25% 9
  • Features - 20% 7
  • Versatility - 15% 7
  • Adjustability - 10% 6
Weight (size small): 12 ounces | Designed for: Sport, Trad, Ice
Packs down small
Lightweight and breathable
Gear loops lay flat
Leg loops are snug
Not comfortable enough for hanging belays

The Arc'teryx FL-355 and its nearly identical sister, the Arc'teryx AR-385a, are the originators of the thin, tape-like harnesses. They have wide four-inch waistbands with no padding, but since the load is distributed across the entire width, they are surprisingly comfortable in the waist. The gear loops lay flat against the hips, which makes it slightly easier to wear a pack over this model. Best of all, they pack down super small thanks to the thin design and tiny stuff sack that Arc'teryx provides.

This harness isn't perfect, though. The FL version doesn't have adjustable legs, and they felt tight to us compared to other non-adjustable leg loops. The leg loops don't taper around the inner thighs either, leaving too much bulk where you least want it. They bothered us a bit when standing and a lot when hanging. They are also both very expensive, and we have a hard time justifying paying double or triple for something that's not the most comfortable thing ever. If the fit feels good to you, though, you'll appreciate the small packed size and eye-turning design.

Read review: Arc'teryx FL-355 - Women's


One of our testers in the field using the Misty Mountain Silhouette.
One of our testers in the field using the Misty Mountain Silhouette.
Photo: Cam McKenzie Ring

Why You Should Trust Us


Senior Review Editor Jane Jackson has spent years hanging around big walls and crags all over the world. From multi-day journeys up El Capitan in Yosemite to multi-hour belay sessions in Siurana, Spain, she has experienced the value of a comfortable harness and the downsides of an ill-fitting one. At the moment, Jane is based in Bishop, California, where her trad climbing routes are being challenged by the extensive amount of world-class bouldering that exists right out of town. That said, she put these harnesses to the test on long trad routes in Yosemite and sport climbing sessions in the Owen's River Gorge.

The models in this review are our favorites from the dozens of women's specific harnesses available online. After months of testing out this year's top models, paying attention to comfort, versatility, adjustability, and discipline-specific features, we have ended up with a comprehensive review that should guide you toward the harness of your belay-duty dreams!

Related: How We Tested Climbing Harness for Women

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Click to enlarge
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Analysis and Test Results


This review focuses on women's specific harnesses for rock, gym, aid, and ice climbing. Some are built for ultralight alpine missions while others offer lots of loops for maximal comfort. To objectively compare each in our testing, we rate them on hanging comfort, standing comfort, features, versatility, and adjustability. This article offers advice and compares each product in depth.

Related: Buying Advice for Climbing Harness for Women

Related: Best Climbing Harness For Men

Looking for a new harness can be like trying to find a good gear...
Looking for a new harness can be like trying to find a good gear placement; you'll know as soon you get good fit.
Photo: Libby Sauter

Value


The women's climbing harnesses that we tested in this review had a pretty significant price range. What do you get from an expensive one that you don't from a budget option? Sometimes not much! Some of the "cheaper" models might not have the most complicated waist belt designs, meaning that they might not distribute the load well or be comfortable for prolonged hanging. But some, like the high value Black Diamond Momentum, performs the best of all lower-priced options and is functional for all types of climbing. The Edelrid Jayne II is another that is lower cost but it falls below in performance for its bulkier and less functional rear loop. This one is better for the beginner that plans to climb only occasionally.


The models with adjustable leg loops, left to right: Black Diamond...
The models with adjustable leg loops, left to right: Black Diamond Technician, Camp Supernova, Mad Rock Venus, Misty Mountain Siloutte, Edelrid Jayne II.
Photo: Cam McKenzie Ring

The model with slightly or non-adjustable leg loops, left to right:...
The model with slightly or non-adjustable leg loops, left to right: Arc'teryx FL-355, Mammut Zephir (previously tested), Black Diamond Solution, Black Diamond Momentum, Petzl Selena.
Photo: Cam McKenzie Ring

Standing Comfort


We've given comfort a big part of our rating metric but split it between standing and hanging. Why? While the hanging comfort is key, unless you're always stuck at hanging belays, you'll likely spend more time standing around, belaying, or sitting down in your harness at the crag than you will be hanging in it. Since most climbers don't want to take it off after every pitch, we need it to be comfortable all the time.


A Note Fit for Women's Specific Models
Most manufacturers make several women's specific models to choose from; some even have a women's version of every men's model in their line-up. Whether you need a "women's" model depends on how your body is proportioned, and also what the manufacturer has deemed is the typical female climber's form (and they seem to all have different ideas of what that is). Don't be afraid to try on some men's or unisex versions when shopping - while you may prefer the more "girly" styling on the female options, or not, fit should come first and foremost when buying this essential piece of gear. In the rest of this article, we'll cover how the various models fared in our test metrics, as well as discuss what to consider when looking for an affordable model.

The models that ranked the highest in this metric were (not surprisingly) the lightweight and minimalist ones. We like the Black Diamond Solution and the Mammut Alnasca best for standing comfort. The waist belt on the Alnasca has split construction with open mesh in between, providing a lot of ventilation (left photo). We could almost forget we were wearing it. We also like the leg loops on the Solution, which are wide in the back but taper between the legs for minimal bulk in that area (right photo).

Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge

Other top models for standing comfort were the Arc'teryx AR-385a and FL-355. These models were also all lightweight and breathable, which makes them less noticeable and more comfortable throughout the day. Some were also easy to wear under a pack and hike around in, and we preferred the Arc'teryx models when hiking or scrambling with our harness on.

The thin design of the Arc&#039;teryx models make it comfortable to wear...
The thin design of the Arc'teryx models make it comfortable to wear under a pack and hike around in.
Photo: Glenda Huxter

One of the least comfortable models when standing is the Misty Mountain Silhouette, simply because it is so bulky and heavy. We also didn't like the waist belt on the Petzl models and find that the wider waistband digs into us in the wrong places if we try to wear them on our waists. Those ladies that wear theirs a little lower and around their hips might find it more comfortable.

Hanging Comfort


This metric is often the dealbreaker when purchasing a new harness. It may look and feel great on, but once you hang in it, if it doesn't feel right, then you should move on to the next model. As manufacturers move to lighter and more intricate designs, often the padding is left by the wayside. We typically need some padding to soften the weight of our bodies against the harness' frame. It is no surprise that the models with more padding scored higher in this metric than the ones without.


The Black Diamond Solution Guide and Black Diamond Momentum were our favorites for hanging comfort. Those harnesses had ample padding and support, and no weird features that dug into or pinched us.

Whether hangdogging or at a hanging belay, the padding on the Misty...
Whether hangdogging or at a hanging belay, the padding on the Misty Mountain Silhouette will keep your legs from going numb.
Photo: Cam McKenzie Ring

You might think that this metric is only important for people doing long multi-pitch routes with hanging belays, but sport climbers tend to spend a fair amount of time hanging in their harness as well, so this is a key consideration for most climbers. We also like the hanging comfort of the sporty Black Diamond Solution.

The Black Diamond Solution (bottom) has wide leg loops that reach...
The Black Diamond Solution (bottom) has wide leg loops that reach most of the way around your thighs but taper nicely between your legs. The Technician's loops (top) use the same triple-strand design, but don't offer as much coverage and were not as comfortable.
Photo: Cam McKenzie Ring

Typically, a climbing harness holds 70% of your weight on the leg loops and only 30% on the waist. So while manufacturers tout the comfort of the waist belt above all, you want to be sure the legs are just as comfortable, if not more so. The Arc'teryx models are comfortable in the waist, but the leg loops pinched our thighs and dug into the back of our bum, which is anything but pleasant.

Hanging in the Arc&#039;teryx FL-355. The leg loops typically support...
Hanging in the Arc'teryx FL-355. The leg loops typically support more weight than the waist belt, and these ones were not so comfortable.
Photo: Cam McKenzie Ring

The Black Diamond Technician also has a comfortable waist belt, but the leg loops have too much webbing and not enough support, and we felt pinched by them. The Black Diamond Solution Guide performs well in this metric because of its wide waistband and well-padded, stiff leg loops; our excellent option for multi-pitch and trad.

Taking a whip in the Technician. This harness had our least favorite...
Taking a whip in the Technician. This harness had our least favorite leg loops, and we didn't like spending any time hanging in it.
Photo: Cam McKenzie Ring

Climbing gear shops typically have a clip-in point that you can use to do your own hang-test before making a purchase. This is a crucial test, as our own testing has shown that what might feel good while standing and walking around in a store will not necessarily feel good when hanging.

Discipline-Specific Features


This rating metric looked at what type of climbing each model was designed for, and how well its features work for those disciplines. Some models have a ton of features (ice clipper slots, extra gear loops, etc.). If you are looking for a sport harness and don't want or need all of those extras, but you do want something that is lightweight, and that has easily accessible gear loops, consider the feature set.


For a traditional-only harness, we thought the Black Diamond Solution had the best features, including wide gear loops, an easy-to-use haul loop, and a waist belt built for hanging belays. We could rack it full of gear and quickdraws, and still had room for our descent shoes, anchoring gear, and belay setups.

The Misty Mountain Silhouette on a long romp up the Monitor Wall in...
The Misty Mountain Silhouette on a long romp up the Monitor Wall in Colorado. This was our favorite model to wear on multi-pitch routes thanks to the comfortable waist belt and large gear loops.
Photo: Scott Ring

The &quot;No Twist&quot; belay loop. Just slide your carabiner through the...
The "No Twist" belay loop. Just slide your carabiner through the slot in the belay loop and then attach your belay device. This prevents the carabiner from cross-loading when catching a fall, and also saves you from hassling with an anti-crossloading carabiner.
Photo: Cam McKenzie Ring

Those looking for a sport harness will appreciate the gear loops and minimalist design of the Black Diamond Solution. It's lightweight but can still carry a ton of draws, unlike the Petzl Selena, with its hard-to-reach rear gear loops. We did like the plastic protector found on some harnesses, like the Edelrid Jayne II. It prevents wear in a hard-to-see spot and should help increase the longevity of your harness.

Plastic protectors on the bottom tie-in point prevent wear from your...
Plastic protectors on the bottom tie-in point prevent wear from your rope rubbing repeatedly against the same spot. It can be hard to see that this wear is even occurring!
Photo: Cam McKenzie Ring

We also like the mobility on the Arc'teryx FL-355. The ultrathin design conforms to the body, and we barely noticed it when climbing. We can't say, however, that there was ever a time that we felt very limited by the material or structure of the models that we were testing — these are not the climbing harnesses that were old, bulky, and confining. Instead, all of the models have movement and fluidity built into their design.

Where we would pay particular attention to this metric is if we were looking for a climbing harness that we were going to use mostly for alpine adventures; say a season in the High Sierras in California. Since much of the climbing there often involves scrambling in between technical pitches without a lot of hanging belays, we'd want a harness that is lightweight, minimalist, easy to move around in, and comfortable under a pack — like the FL-355 or the AR-385a.

The Arc&#039;teryx FL-355 has great mobility, and we could climb (and...
The Arc'teryx FL-355 has great mobility, and we could climb (and hike) in it with ease.
Photo: Cam McKenzie Ring

Versatility


Versatility is an important metric for anyone who likes to do a lot of different types of climbing, or for someone new to the sport who is not sure what style they like best and wants to try it all. It's also a key consideration for those of us who don't have a lot of money to spend on gear and would prefer to own only one harness and have some more money to spend on a set of cams or quickdraws.


The most versatile climbing harnesses that we tested were the all-around models, like the Black Diamond Technician, Edelrid Jayne II, and the Arc'teryx AR-385a. All of these models can do pretty much everything, and they do it well. Note that the Petzl Luna no longer has ice clipper slots, since the new Caritool Evo from Petzl clips around the entire waist belt.

The Arc&#039;teryx AR-385a is a great example of an all-around model. It...
The Arc'teryx AR-385a is a great example of an all-around model. It has adjustable leg-loops, large gear loops for quickdraws or your trad rack and slots for ice tool holders.
Photo: Libby Sauter

The Black Diamond Momentum is slightly less versatile, as it does not have ice clipper slots, but it's still suited to traditional or sport climbing. While the Arc'teryx FL-355 has the slots for ice climbing, you might not be able to get the non-adjustable leg loops over a pair of winter pants.

The Black Diamond Momentum harness works well for both sport and...
The Black Diamond Momentum harness works well for both sport and traditional climbing, and it won't blow your budget either.
Photo: Scott Ring

Adjustability


Our final rating metric evaluated how adjustable each model was to accommodate different layers of clothing as well as different body types. This is a key consideration if you plan on climbing in various climates, and if your proportions are not what the manufacturer has deemed to be "standard" or "average." For example, the Arc'teryx FL-355 model has very tight fixed leg loops — it only fit those of us with slimmer legs.

However, the AR-385a has adjustable leg loops that can accommodate a 4-6 inch difference in leg circumference. Adjustable legs allow us to wear the same harness to the gym in leggings one day, and out on an ice climb over long underwear and softshell pants the next.


Black Diamond&#039;s trakFIT slider. The elastic underneath the webbing...
Black Diamond's trakFIT slider. The elastic underneath the webbing adjusts with the sliding buckle. It's not as adjustable as a real buckle/webbing leg loop, but there is no extra webbing flapping around on your legs which is nice.
Photo: Cam McKenzie Ring

It's no surprise that the models with adjustable leg loops scored higher in this metric than the ones without, but not all adjustable leg loops are created equal. We want something that still provides padding around most of our thighs whenever possible. The Black Diamond Technician does not. The Technician has less leg loop and more webbing, which made it uncomfortable to hang in.

While adjustable leg loops add more weight to a climbing harness — the adjustable Luna weighs about two ounces more than the non-adjustable but similar Selena — that difference is pretty minimal all things considered. The Black Diamond Momentum has a trakFIT closure that combines the functionality of an adjustable leg loop with the lighter weight of a fixed one. There is a sliding buckle that can tighten or loosen the fixed loop with elastic attached underneath it for stretch. While we like this system, it does not offer as much adjustability as a buckle system (2-3 inches instead of 4-6).

From sport to trad and from steeps to slab, we put these harnesses...
From sport to trad and from steeps to slab, we put these harnesses to the test!
Photo: Cam McKenzie Ring

Conclusion


A harness is a necessity for all climbers; the fact that it can keep you alive makes the decision-making process that much harder. It is crucial to find a model that fits not only your climbing style but also your build. We hope that you were able to use the information in this review to make an informed decision about the type of harness you need.

Jane Jackson & Cam McKenzie Ring