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How We Tested Climbing Shoes

Friday November 11, 2022
climbing shoes - twelve pairs of shoes assembled for what was a particularly long...
Twelve pairs of shoes assembled for what was a particularly long (and painful!) day of testing.
Credit: Jack Cramer

The rock climbing shoe review began like any other review at OutdoorGearLab, with extensive online research. We examined sales at online retailers, perused customer comments, and read formal reviews from our competitors to select the top 28 models that are currently available. Unlike many other review sites, we then purchased the top shoes we selected to undergo full hands-on testing. As far as we're concerned, the best way to test a climbing shoe is to go climbing, so that's exactly what we did. We made sure to do so on a variety of rock types—limestone, sandstone, volcanic tuff, granite—and with testers of a variety of foot types—narrow feet, wide feet, high arches, flat arches, and every kind of feet in between. Below are brief descriptions of how we tried to evaluate our specific performance metrics.

climbing shoes - the single strap design of the five ten aleon doesn't lock your foot...
The single strap design of the Five Ten Aleon doesn't lock your foot in quite as well for edging as other two strap or lace up designs.
Credit: Jack Cramer

Edging


Edging comes into play the most while face climbing on walls that range from less than vertical to slightly overhanging. To test performance, we sought out routes within this range whose primary features were edges rather than pockets, cracks, smears, or jugs. Bolted routes in granite zones like Pine Creek Canyon and Yosemite, along with volcanic crimpfests in the Owens River Gorge, fit these criteria nicely. We then lapped pitch after pitch while recording how well each shoe supported our feet and gripped progressively tinier edges. Some shoes performed excellently. Others not so much. Common problems were shoes that let our feet slide around inside or pliable rubber that bent or oozed off edges.

climbing shoes - although the aspects don't have the high-top design of many other...
Although the Aspects don't have the high-top design of many other crack shoes, we still found them comfortable to jam inside sustained splitters.
Credit: Jack Cramer

Cracks


To test crack climbing performance, we looked for featureless walls with sustained cracks of differing sizes. These cracks ranged from the perfect sandstone splitters of Indian Creek to the painful granite flares of Yosemite, with an enormous variety in between. Interestingly, the same shoe is often not great for both wide and thin cracks. Wide cracks are usually nicer in shoes with some padding while thin cracks reward designs with the slimmest toe boxes. For this reason, we tried to give all the shoes we tested the benefit of the doubt, meaning we scored them based off whether they performed well for any size crack. We then discuss each shoe's ideal crack size, if they have one, in the individual product reviews.

climbing shoes - the profile of the evolv oracle's toe is a little too large for...
The profile of the Evolv Oracle's toe is a little too large for perfect pocket climbing. Its sharp downturn is still beneficial on the steeps, but you can't squeeze them inside the tiniest pockets.
Credit: Jack Cramer

Steep Terrain


Generally, as climbing difficulty increases, the steepness of the wall also increases. When the angle of the wall changes from vertical to overhanging the ideal performance characteristics also change. We evaluated this metric by assessing each shoe's performance on overhanging terrain. We particularly focused on each model's ability to heel hook, toe hook, utilize pockets, or pull your lower body into the wall in other ways. In general, softer, more downturned, shoes allowed our testers to better utilize footholds on steep terrain.

climbing shoes - the chimera is fitted with just 3.5mm of vibram xs grip 2 rubber...
The Chimera is fitted with just 3.5mm of Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber. This thin rubber combined with the super soft midsole make the shoe extraordinarily sensitive.
Credit: Jack Cramer

Sensitivity


Being able to sense the footholds increases your awareness and allows you to tactilely detect when you've placed your feet improperly or when they begin to slip unexpectedly. We evaluated sensitivity by trying multiple pairs of shoes one after another on the same marginal footholds. These tests were repeated at multiple bouldering areas and in the climbing gym to gather as much data as possible. When conclusions were difficult to draw, our testers even resorted to wearing different shoes on their left and right feet to effectively compare sensitivity. All observations were recorded and discussed at length before we came to the final numerical scores.

climbing shoes - multi-pitch climbing is where a comfortable shoe with a flat midsole...
Multi-pitch climbing is where a comfortable shoe with a flat midsole like the Tarantulace really shines.
Credit: Jack Cramer

Comfort


Of all our performance metrics, comfort may be the most subjective. Everybody's feet are different, and a comfy pair for one tester was occasionally excruciating to wear for another. To try to make it more objective, we recruited several testers with the same shoe size but different foot types. They were all asked to independently evaluate each model and report on their comfort. Some shoes generated polarizing contradictory reports. Where this occurred, we've tried to explain the differing opinions in our product reviews. Other shoes, however, generated near-universal acclaim for their superior comfort. Generally, these are less aggressive, high volume, designs that also feature lots of padding. These widely admired models received top comfort scores, while those with mixed or negative reports scored lower.

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GearLab is founded on the principle of honest, objective, reviews. Our experts test thousands of products each year using thoughtful test plans that bring out key performance differences between competing products. And, to assure complete independence, we buy all the products we test ourselves. No cherry-picked units sent by manufacturers. No sponsored content. No ads. Just real, honest, side-by-side testing and comparison.

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